Dryer repair in Hollywood
Dryer not heating, taking forever to dry, or making grinding noises? Gas or electric we service LG, Samsung, Whirlpool, Speed Queen, Miele, Bosch and Maytag dryers across South Florida. EPA Section 608 certified for sealed venting work.
What kind of problems are we working with?
No Heat
Tumbling but cold is almost always heating element, thermal fuse, or cycling thermostat. Whirlpool/Maytag 27" cabinets (279838 element family) read ~10–12Ω across the coil; open circuit means replace. Thermal fuse is the kill-switch and trips when the blower vent is choked—replacing without clearing the duct just blows the new one in 30 days. LG/Samsung steam dryers add a second high-limit thermistor on the heater housing. Typical fix runs $180–240 with the part.
Not Tumbling
Drum dead but the motor hums or the timer clicks usually means a snapped drive belt or seized idler pulley—pull the front panel, the belt is in pieces around the drum. Whirlpool/Kenmore 29" cabinets share belt 661570V; LG/Samsung run a poly-V on a different idler geometry. If the motor doesn’t hum at all the door switch or thermal cutoff in the motor circuit has opened. Belt + idler combo replacement runs $160–220.
Strange Noises
Rhythmic thump under load is almost always a worn drum roller or rear bearing; a chirp that fades as the drum spins up is the idler pulley shaft. Whirlpool 27" units (4392067 maintenance kit) get all rollers, belt and idler replaced together because the labor is identical. Samsung front-load dryers run a felt seal at the rear bulkhead that howls when it shreds. Bearing kits typically $180–260 with parts.
Long Drying Times
If heat is present but loads take two cycles, 90% of the time the vent run is blocked or the moisture sensor strip is coated. We check static pressure at the dryer exhaust—over 0.6 in. w.c. means clean the duct before condemning any part. Whirlpool/Maytag moisture-sense models with shorted bars read no continuity between the strips and the control board. Vent clean + sensor service usually $140–190.
Overheating
If the cabinet runs hot or the dryer trips on temperature, that’s the high-limit thermostat doing its job because real airflow has stopped. Cause is almost always a packed lint screen housing or a 90-degree elbow at the cabinet that finally clogged. Whirlpool/Maytag high-limits open near 250°F and won’t reset cold if the element shorted to the drum. We pull the duct, blower, and element to inspect together. Full service with cleaning runs $190–270.
Common dryer error codes and fixes
Whirlpool / Maytag L2 — supply voltage low
L2 means the dryer is seeing <240V at the terminal block. Almost always a tripped breaker leg or a loose neutral. Don't replace the control board — check the breaker first (free), then the 4-prong plug (~5 min). Saves a $250 part swap.
Samsung HE / HC — heating element / high temp
Samsung DV45 / DV50 / DV80: HE = no heat; HC = overheating (thermal fuse blown). Both indicate restricted airflow — clogged exhaust duct. We always clean the full duct before replacing parts; otherwise the new fuse pops within a week.
LG FE / D80 — exhaust restriction
FE = no flame on gas dryers; D80 = exhaust 80%+ blocked. Clean the lint trap housing AND the wall vent. LG flame sensor itself rarely fails — usually it's airflow.
Dryer running but no heat
If display shows no error but clothes stay damp: thermal fuse (10/10 common), heating element (electric), or igniter (gas). All under 60 min repair, parts $40-$120. We test heating-element resistance with a meter before swapping — saves time and money.
Dryer makes loud thumping or squealing
Thumping = drum support roller or drum glide worn. Squealing = idler pulley bearing. We re-tension the belt and replace bearings as a single job (~$70 part, 75 min). If left unaddressed, the belt snaps within months.
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